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Jan
9
Unexpected Goodness and …
Filed Under Return To Vietnam | 6 Comments
The Reality of War
We have now visited Hanoi, Halong Bay, Danang, Hoi An, and today we are in Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon). It has been a very interesting and wonderful adventure in becoming more knowledgeable about the culture, customs, geography, and of course the people of this area. What has struck me the most is the very graciousness of the individuals we have meet and spent time with during the trip. The Vietnamese people are very much attached to their past through religion, stories, and myths. Every place has its own special tale and symbol attached to it, such as the Dragon in Halong Bay that came down to protect the people many centuries ago. To do so, it spate out thousands of diamonds, rubies, etc. which became small island that kept invaders from being able to sail straight into the bay. A beautiful vision to be sure. The only negative comment we have heard on this entire trip, interesting enough, has come from an American who never served in any conflict. His attitude was something like “I really don’t believe in PTSD”,”get over it”, and “that’s your problem”. I immediately thought of Colonel Knowlton of the Wyoming Nation Guard – veterans don’t want to talk much about their services, they certainly don’t want sympathy, but perhaps a simple, heartfelt Thank You would be nice. This American gave the deepest dagger into an already wounded soul.
Jan
9
Saigon (Ho Chi Minh City)
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Vietnamese Children
Actually the city is still called Saigon by local residents and much of the rest of the world. Somehow that was comforting in its own small way…
Saigon, more than any other place in Vietnam, is embracing a capitalist approach to tourism and welcoming outside investments. With 10 million people, the city is busy but continues to upgrade its lifestyle. It looks and feels less like a third world country than anywhere we have been in-country. Since the outskirts of Saigon was my first contact with Vietnam during the war, the memories are also more alive in this place. I remember the intense heat and humidity. I remember how beautiful the land was, even in time of war. I also, and more graphically, remember the sacrifices made by those who served. Its those memories that are most vivid…the horrors of war.
Now Jan & I are going to stroll along the streets and appreciate this place for what it is now and for what it is striving to become. But we will also never forget the past and especially those who never returned home.
Jan
9
Danang, South Vietnam
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Jan at China Beach
Since the takeover of South Vietnam by the communists forces in the North during1975, Vietnam is now longer identified as North & South. The DMZ no longer exists. I use the terms because that is how I relate to the land. One of the first sights I encountered in Danang was a military deuce & 1/2 with US Army insignia on the door and a communists red flag with star flying from the radio antenna. That didn’t feel very good, but then the past is often hard to put aside considering the massive loss of the war.
After visiting the Cham Museum in downtown Danang, we were taken on a walk thru a Vietnamese village just a few miles from town. Seeing a village under today’s conditions was insightful, but not much has changed in the living conditions. We walked along rice patties and observer workers in the fields and water buffalo still being used for plowing and a variety of labor intensive chores. For a brief moment I experience an anxious moment as I unconsciously found myself scanning the far treeline for AK-47 tracer rounds. I took a deep breath and reassured myself that we are in a different time and it was great to be here under much different conditions. The painful past doesn’t die easily.
As we were leaving the village, our guide informed us that the Viet Cong had occupied the hamlet throughout the Vietnam War (The Vietnamese call it the American War). No wonder sniper fire, motars. and rockets plagued American fortifications such as Danang, regardless of their relatively secure environment. Next we visited Marble Mountain, a major source for marble statues and other artwork.
Before leaving Danang, Jan & I walked the sandy shore of China Beach. It was very peaceful and relaxing. After all these years I finally got to experience my first incountry R&R.
Jan
9
Halong Bay, Vietnam
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- Junks at Halong Bay
Islands of Halong Bay
Halong Bay, the seaport to Hanoi, consists of over 2000 islands. We took a junk boat ride thru the islands. Blanketed by tropical forest, the islands are wondrous rock formations that sparkle like emeralds in the shimmering aqua sea. During the course of the day, we explored a cave that is only slightly smaller than Carlsbad. Beautiful limestone formations throughout. In total, the limestone islands of Halong cover an oceanic area of over 900 sq. miles.
Tomorrow we move southward toward South Vietnam and the port of Danang, at one time the first and most heavily occupied location by American forces during the war.
Jan
8
Hanoi, Vietnam
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Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum
Hoa Lo Prison "Hanoi Hilton"
We spent the past 2 days in Hanoi & Halong Bay. People, mopeds and bikes everywhere! The drive inland from the Bay to Hanoi takes almost 4 hours one way. The country is undergoing change, but remains very poor with a low standard of living. Hanoi shows very little diversity, with the residents primarily North Vietnamese & Chinese.
After countless invasions and centuries of control by the Chinese and other countries, Vietnam was occupied by the Empire of Japan, in collaboration with France during WW II. The turning point in Vietnam’s recent history came in 1954 when Ho Chi Minh ordered the removal of French Soldiers from their military firebase at Dien Bein Phu. The destruction of the French army soon lead to the US involvement in the region. In 1973 the US military began withdrawal from Vietnam and in 1975 Saigon and the south fell to communism and the takeover by the North Vietnamese army.
While in Hanoi, we visited the Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum where “Uncle Ho” has been embalmed and on display since his death in 1969. The local Army Museum has thousands of military artifacts and vehicles on display, primarily from Russia, China, and the United States. Our final visit was to the Hoa Lo Prison (Hanoi Hilton) where American Prisoners of War were held captive. Photos included John McCain and many other US military personnel…mostly pilots. The prison conditions where difficult to view and following our time there, Hanoi began to close in on us. It was time to leave.
Jan
6
Hanoi, Vietnam
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We begin our 12 hour R/T into the heart of the city. I go with some hesitation…
Will write about the experience tomorrow.
Jan
6
Two Days in Hong Kong
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Traffic in Hong Kong
Hong Kong is a diverse city with its bustling harbor and towering skyscrapers. In Cantonese, Hong Kong means “Fragrant Harbor”. Over a dozen islands make up Hong Kong Bay with a present population of around 6 million. Following 156 years of British colonial rule, Hong Kong reverted to Chinese rule in June 1997. Although many predicted the handover would be the death of this great city the fears never materialized. Today Hong Kong is as dynamic, energetic and business minded as any major business city in the world.
Some of the highlights of our visit include a tour of the bustling financial district, tram to Victoria Peak to overlook the city and bay, visit to the Aberdeen fishing village and a Sampan ride thru the bay, and a visit the the famous Stanley outdoor market. As we departed the bay on Sunday night, the harbor displayed its Symphony of Lights which is a spectacle to behold. Now we cruise south to Hanoi…
Jan
2
Hong Kong
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Hong Kong
Arrived in Hong Kong on United Boeing 747 following 16 hours non-stop from San Fran.
Long flight! Looking forward to touring the city for next 2 days – “The City that Never Sleeps”!
The time here is 15 hours later than MST. In other words it’s already tomorrow!
Beautiful.
Dec
30
The Journey Begins
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"Lest We Forget"
It is late Tuesday evening and I have spent the day taking down the Christmas tree, cleaning house, washing clothes, picking up last minute items, and packing for our long awaited trip to Vietnam. A trip that we feel quite excited as well as a bit apprehensive to be taking. It is almost as if we are putting our past and present in order —- a preparation for a new future. The fact that we will be beginning a new year when we leave very early January 1, 2009 is almost too metaphorical for our situation. We are trying hard not to anticipate what might happen once in country, but feel prepared. Monday we visited a therapist in Cheyenne who trained us both on a deep breathing activity that we can utilize if either one of us gets to feeling a bit anxious or overwhelmed. Somedays it would be nice to be two again — all we would need to feel comforted would be a blankie and a soft teddy bear. Guess we will have to settled for the deep breathing and maybe a big, fluffy pillow. Happy New Year and may this coming year truly bring peace and good will to all.
Dec
22
Southeast Asia Trip
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Freedom Isn't Free
On New Year’s Day, Jan & I will be flying from Denver to Hong Kong to begin our 3-week journey through Southeast Asia. This will be my first return to Vietnam since my military tour-of-duty in the late 1960’s.
This blog, “Return To Vietnam” will be used to briefly chronicle the highlights of our trip as we move south to Hanoi, then on to Danang & Hue and eventually to the Delta Region of Saigon (Ho Chi Minh City).
We will also venture on to Thailand, Cambodia and end up in Singapore.
Our plan is to update our blog about every three days as we move through the various regions of our trip.