Jan

9

Unexpected Goodness and …

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The Reality of War

The Reality of War

We have now visited Hanoi, Halong Bay, Danang, Hoi An, and today we are in Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon).  It has been a very interesting and wonderful adventure in becoming more knowledgeable about the culture, customs, geography, and of course the people of this area.  What has struck me the most is the very graciousness of the individuals we have meet and spent time with during the trip.  The Vietnamese people are very much attached to their past through religion, stories, and myths.  Every place has its own special tale and symbol attached to it, such as the Dragon in Halong Bay that came down to protect the people many centuries ago.  To do so, it spate out thousands of diamonds, rubies, etc. which became small island that kept invaders from being able to sail straight into the bay.  A beautiful vision to be sure.  The only negative comment we have heard on this entire trip, interesting enough, has come from an American who never served in any conflict. His attitude was something like “I really don’t believe in PTSD”,”get over it”, and “that’s your problem”.  I immediately thought of Colonel Knowlton of the Wyoming Nation Guard – veterans don’t want to talk much about their services, they certainly don’t want sympathy, but perhaps a simple, heartfelt Thank You would be nice.  This American gave the deepest dagger into an already wounded soul.

Jan

9

Saigon (Ho Chi Minh City)

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Vietnamese Children

Vietnamese Children

Actually the city is still called Saigon by local residents and much of the rest of the world. Somehow that was comforting in its own small way…

Saigon, more than any other place in Vietnam, is embracing a capitalist approach to tourism and welcoming outside investments. With 10 million people, the city is busy but continues to upgrade its lifestyle. It looks and feels less like a third world country than anywhere we have been in-country. Since the outskirts of Saigon was my first contact with Vietnam during the war, the memories are also more alive in this place. I remember the intense heat and humidity. I remember how beautiful the land was, even in time of war. I also, and more graphically, remember the sacrifices made by those who served. Its those memories that are most vivid…the horrors of war.

Now Jan & I are going to stroll along the streets and appreciate this place for what it is now and for what it is striving to become. But we will also never forget the past and especially those who never returned home.

Jan

9

Danang, South Vietnam

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Jan at China Beach

Jan at China Beach

Since the takeover of South Vietnam by the communists forces in the North during1975, Vietnam is now longer identified as North & South. The DMZ no longer exists. I use the terms because that is how I relate to the land. One of the first sights I encountered in Danang was a military deuce & 1/2 with US Army insignia on the door and a communists red flag with star flying from the radio antenna. That didn’t feel very good, but then the past is often hard to put aside considering the massive loss of the war.

After visiting the Cham Museum in downtown Danang, we were taken on a walk thru a Vietnamese village just a few miles from town. Seeing a village under today’s conditions was insightful, but not much has changed in the living conditions. We walked along rice patties and observer workers in the fields and water buffalo still being used for plowing and a variety of labor intensive chores. For a brief moment I experience an anxious moment as I unconsciously found myself scanning the far treeline for AK-47 tracer rounds. I took a deep breath and reassured myself that we are in a different time and it was great to be here under much different conditions. The painful past doesn’t die easily.

As we were leaving the village, our guide informed us that the Viet Cong had occupied the hamlet throughout the Vietnam War (The Vietnamese call it the American War). No wonder sniper fire, motars. and rockets plagued American fortifications such as Danang, regardless of their relatively secure environment. Next we visited Marble Mountain, a major source for marble statues and other artwork.

Before leaving Danang, Jan & I walked the sandy shore of China Beach. It was very peaceful and relaxing. After all these years I finally got to experience my first incountry R&R.

Jan

9

Halong Bay, Vietnam

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Junks at Halong Bay
Junks at Halong Bay
Islands of Halong Bay

Islands of Halong Bay

Halong Bay, the seaport to Hanoi, consists of over 2000 islands. We took a junk boat ride thru the islands. Blanketed by tropical forest, the islands are wondrous rock formations that sparkle like emeralds in the shimmering aqua sea. During the course of the day, we explored a cave that is only slightly smaller than Carlsbad. Beautiful limestone formations throughout. In total, the limestone islands of Halong cover an oceanic area of over 900 sq. miles.

Tomorrow we move southward toward South Vietnam and the port of Danang, at one time the first and most heavily occupied location by American forces during the war.